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1986 Check Engine light under acceleration

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Old Jan 6, 2012 | 11:03 PM
  #1  
mprt kla's Avatar
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Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 2
From: Virginia
Default 1986 Check Engine light under acceleration

Hello,

Newbie here, just joined tonight after getting my trooper two nights ago. I searched but couldn't find what I was looking for. My problem with my 86 trooper II (4 cyl) is that anytime i get upwards of 3100 RPM and accelerate or even just cruise at say 65 my check engine light comes on. It will turn off immediately after easing up on the gas ever so little. It does not come on at low speeds, mainly 40+ over 3g RPM. It does this whether it is cold or hot.

This truck has sat for the last two years and I am in the process of bringing it back. The motor seems to run great except this issue.

Secondly, the gauge cluster in the center (oil/temp/gas) seems to go in and out. The oil pressure gauge always works, the temp gauge will stop working sometimes but then randomly turn back on. The gas gauge will either not register anything or it will register a 1/4 tank always (I just drained old gas and filled the tank tonight) I'm hoping this is just a dusty connection behind the gauges but I haven't pulled them yet, hopefully in the AM. Anyone ever had any experience with these two issues?

The pic is my new trooper and my other toy, 1991 GMC Syclone.

Thanks for the help in advance!

Thanks!
 
Attached Thumbnails 1986 Check Engine light under acceleration-328000_10100272140220767_15615201_45984945_1989212075_o.jpg   1986 Check Engine light under acceleration-393777_10150456507491697_716921696_9085364_1680680231_n.jpg  
Old Jan 7, 2012 | 02:39 PM
  #2  
ceej's Avatar
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Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 16
From: Oregon
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Check the Throttle position sensor. It may be time for a new one.
In your manual, there should be a test for this part. Being this old, and after sitting for a while, it's possible it's simply worn out, or has corrosion damage. Test the part and if it doesn't function correctly and smoothly, replace it.

Check all connections on the gauge cluster, remove, clean, and re-attach all grounds under the dash. The fuel sending unit may have corrosion also. More of a PITA to deal with. Make sure the tank ground is good as well. Verify all engine/manifold to chassis grounds are clean and attached appropriately. A loose connection will result in intermittent or non-operating gauges.

Most of the electrical problems I go through are from corrosion. I live in a pretty wet region. Sitting outside or under a tarp can be really rough on electrical connections and grounds. Some of the connection points are riveted types. Poor connections due to corrosion will be difficult to repair with this style of component, so replacement parts may be the answer.
Test them first. No sense throwing money at a part that is in acceptable condition.



CJ
 
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