My power locks stopped working - sort of. Neither the left or right door buttons will lock or unlock the doors. The key in the driver's door only mechanically unlocks the driver's door. It no longer controls the locks in the other doors.

The remote fob will only unlock the driver's door. It will not lock it and it will not unlock the other doors as it used to do with a double press.

Fuses are good. There is power to the controller in the driver's door arm switch panel. Took a while to figure out it was there with no help from any wiring diagrams I could find. (See my other post looking for a good schematic.) When I press the lock/unlock button on the LF door I can hear the relays in the controller actuate momentarily but the locks don't move. There is power to the keyless entry unit, as it receives the signal to unlock the door. I disconnected the battery for a few minutes in the hope that the controller might reset itself but that didn't help.

This started after my fob died (not the battery) and I had to use the key in the driver's door for a few days. It did lock and unlock the doors but a couple of times it set off the alarm when unlocked, which I don't think it should do.

My suspicion is that there is a problem with one of the switches in the locks or actuator. (Better that than the controller!) Been trying to trace out the connections but connectors shown in the automotix.net diagrams don't seem to exist and connector pin numbers on the ones I can find don't always match up to the wire colors shown. My Hayes manual doesn't show the power locks for a '99.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance!

 

The problem was either a bad connection or partially broken power wire to the fuse box connection. This bad connection or broken wire is at the connector inside the side panel between the driver's footwell and the fender. This is the LF door wiring that is in the flexible rubber tube that connects the door to the body. The connector is called H-28 in one of the diagrams I found.

The poor connection or mostly broken wire allowed enough just current on the +12 volt line to get to the controller in the door switch panel to activate the relays on the board, but not enough to power the locks themselves. It measured correctly when checking voltage but when the button was pushed the voltage on pin 11, the Green-White power wire, dropped to almost 0. That this could happen without blowing the fuse indicated some type of high resistance in the power wire run. (An EE degree and 40 years of experience are good for something! :-)

I don't know if the wire broke from 12 years of flexing or the connector got some water on it and corroded. The connector cannot be removed from the void without removing the door, which is more trouble than it was worth so I decided to just bypass the problem area. I ran a 16 ga wire from the back of the connector on the door lock/window switch panel through the flexible hose and down to the same Green-White wire at connector (H-32) behind the driver's kick panel. The new wire restored full power to the lock controller in the door and all is well now.

The wiring diagram access I purchased from automotix.net was incomplete in most areas and just wrong in some of the connector pinouts that it did give. However, the wire colors did seem to be correct but I will avoid buying anything from them in the future. I'm still looking for a good diagram.

Hope this helps someone.