I think I got a ghost under the hood of my 2000 V6, or it is something fixable, I'd prefer the latter.
I have one clue for the sherlocks outthere, have a scan gauge running and set to show me the voltage. Normal values
engine off - 12.6-12.9
engine running fine: 13.8-14.0

So, cold start is a PITA, long cranking while voltage shows normal (just over 12V) and somehow she comes to life (just when I start to think today I ain't going anywhere!)

Then driving for about 10min (picking up a buddy), running just fine but the voltage is jumping all over the place (anywhere from 12 to 15V). ABS light comes on (which I believe has to do with low voltage?).

After those 10min driving I shut her down, voltage shows around 10V now, sometimes lower! then turning back on kinda weak, just what you would expect from a 10V, turning the key in cranking position and it takes like half a second before she actually starts cranking! BUT she comes right on and everything is normal from there!
runs fine, voltage normal, shutting down and restarting no problem now, everything's perfect and like nothing happened until next morning when the same game starts all over again....

I have one code - P1326 which I believe means a circuit fault of the ION-sensing module? checked all wires there already except the ones going to the PCM.

And when I say cold start, its not like icy, I live in centr. am., coldest start that car has seen is about 79F.

So, any ideas where to start looking for a glitch in the matrix?
Any help appreciated, pls brain storm!

 

another clue - when turning the ignition on, besides the fuel pump pumping and the high pitch beep from the ion sensing module I got a strange noise coming from the TPS for about half a second, hard to describe the sound, like a "ratatatatatat" or "clicklicklicklicklick" - lol - now you probably think you lost me :-)
anyway while making that noise I watched the butterfly and its closing from the regular 0.015 (slightly open) to the shut-tight position and looks and sounds like it wants to close even more. (the same shut-tight-closing it is doing when cranking but doesn't wanna start)

I checked the TPS connector, got the +12V on the motor and the 2 wires with +5V for the sensor feed.
And the TPS is about 6 weeks old, just replaced it, which (coincidentally??) took care of the cold start problem up till now.

 

well I guess my best bet is to dive into the wiring harness, checked some more around there and found a continuity from a black/blue wire at the MAF sensor to a black/yellow one on the PCM connector, could be that it's meant to be like that but I also heard lot of stories about wires melting together somewhere, especially the PCM harness seems to be a candidate for that.
Until I get around to that I found an easier way to get the car running - temporarily disconnecting the PCV-hose gives it enough air to start (the no-start-problem is the throttle shutting tight not letting air in, probably a bad signal which makes the computer do that).

 

update - after unplugging the MAF sensor everything was basically fine - no cold start problems, runs fine, a few codes of course and a reduced power condition here & there.
Got a new MAF-sensor, now slight cold start problem again (I'm gonna unplug that again!) and still that grinding noise from the Throttle positioner when turning the key (??) - like before it still wants to close more when already shut tight...
Now after I checked all wires and replaced about every sensor, got new denso plugs in, getting codes 1326 & 1310. I read that the 1310 points at #3 coil? Is that the center one on the passenger side? (2000 V6 3.2)