Hi everyone.

New to the site. Lots to learn about my new project.

My current project build is a first to me in almost all ways. This will be my first 4x4 I've owned(briefly sold jeeps in late 90's and fell in love), and is the first diesel I have ever owned personally. I haven't even bought the project vehicle yet(help requested here ). All I know is it HAS to be a ****** or Jeep. Preferably a smaller one, like a CJ2, 3 or 5. Although I would buy a CJ7, 8, 10, or a ****** 4x4 truck is the price was right(read inexpensive, but not rotted junk).

The 1.8L 4FB1 I found on CL, out of a Chevette, with 55,000 original miles. Auto trans was left behind, as of no interest to me whatsoever. Got it much cheaper, too. I chose to buy this motor because of the price, weight, and apparent reliability. I have been meditating on the concept for a year, so when I saw the 1.8L, I did some fast research, and I jumped. Parts seem to be a slight concern, and wish I had considered this aspect a bit more. But the tiny size and proven reliability should more than compensate. Actually just spoke with a guy who has plenty of spare motors just a few hours away. And am in contact with a Isuzu Master Tech...

And for those out of the loop, these weigh @ 368lbs FULLY DRESSED, and have almost ALL the features of a high end boosted diesel. Piston squirters, beefy rods and crank, ect...

Goals of the project are:
1) MECHANICAL INJECTION exclusively. NO electronics on running motor. I don't care if it hurts economy slightly. I have my very good reasons for this, and is NOT optional. Seems it is.
2) CHEAP FUEL The ability to dump nearly any kind of waste/junk oil into the tank. Constructive input welcome here, but I have personally seen everything from used soybean oil, used motor oil, to old auto trans fluid used in various diesels (including common rail). No strange additives, mixing, ect. Works great, cheap, and easy. I have seen mid 90's Ford common rails burning just about anything. My personal thoughts are if the "junk"(filtered to 1 micron) is cut with diesel #2, you would have no real concern. Diesel #2 has a much higher sulfur content, which is very slippery...And #2 is STREET LEGAL in a diesel older than mid or late 90's(correct me if I'm wrong for OH at least). Just read the placard on a diesel #1 pump the other day. It said RECOMMENDED for older than late 90's...
3) POWER Perhaps @ double or triple factory torque, which is possible.
4) RELIABILITY
5) SIMPLICITY (of overall design, of fabbing)
6) COST (as in, as little as possible), but with a huge nod towards safety and reliability.
I feel also the impatient and romantic can get ripped off during a purchase.
7) FUEL ECONOMY I know a 4x4 brick is not efficient, but if I can bag 30-40MPG on the highway I'd be happy. And no I don't want huge knobby mud tires.

The project goals are a balance, and variable, to a point. The balance of the goals, plus fabbing time divided by reliability... Lotta meditating and math in uncharted waters. But it's fun.

I noticed a Isuzu P'up with a M90 blown 4FB1 at another site. Works very nice. The Guy even used Cummins Timing components in the Altitude compensator. I am awaiting some more info on the successes/concerns of the mod. It's of particular interest to me as the gentleman I bought my 1.8l diesel from threw an M90 in, along with a inter-cooler(i believe from a Saab). It reminds me of a modern radiator, with plastic tanks on either side.
However in the mean time I am tossing the idea @ of using it, as it is on hand, free and ready to roll(as far as the unit itself goes). Versus trying to buy/ship a turbo(or two) that probably wouldn't be quite right anyways. I noticed the T25's are too big really, and the T15's seem small. To use the turbine side of a T15, and compressor from T25, well, there's 2 used turbos I gotta buy, still have to have it balanced, rebuild the unit. Then fab oil line, return... So anyways, very rough calculations reveal @ .95-1 (appx) drive would yield @ 12- 15psi at 6,000 RPM Blower speed, @ 5,000RPM Motor redline. The blower would live dang near forever. My biggest concern is parasitic power losses @ cruise, and at redline. Tiny motor can't afford much HP to spare...I know TECHNICALLY the M90 is way too big. But it's THERE and READY. But decent economy is also a factor, but then also it must be uber reliable... I think personally for my project my goals if I went this route would be to get full boost at 5,000RPM, and keep it conservative during cruise. My goal is to HAVE the power there, available, but actually use it as sparingly as possible(so I don't stand out like a lil ol' lady angering everyone else merging with traffic!)

My next biggest initial concern is the Trans. I've heard repeatedly that a Chevette or P'up (2 or 4 whl drv) is rather weak once boost is applied. So far my trans concept is a manual Chevette bell housing, plasma cut from the trans, milled to the correct depth to weld a @ 1/2" plate, machined to bolt onto a T5. That's just my initial concept. And with the power goals I have, I really need a trans that's a bit beefier than a Zook trans, I think. Plus if I am going through the trouble of major fab work on something, I'll use something a heckuva lot beefier and MUCH more common than a zook trans.

Problems are I don't really want to destroy a Chevette/P'up Trans, and the work involved.

I'm not afraid to fab/ move chassis parts at all :wink: ...

I have considered a Toyota or Nissan 4x4 5spd. The Bellhousings look very similar to the Isuzu bolt pattern(this is just me quickly looking through 1,000's of pics on the web)! Or would it be possible to mount the Chevette or P'up Bellhousing (which is half the casing) on another Japanese 4x4 5spd? I know there are only very few Japanese trans suppliers, and the trans casings regardless being Toyota, Nissan, Mitsu, Zook all look the SAME(other than engine mating surface)! Most even mount the starter in the right place.

In the factory P'up and Chevette Isuzu 5spd, 5th was weak. Just like the early 280ZX 5spd, from the same time period...Then in '83 they used the desirable, ACTUAL T5. Which was copied, and could still be found in mid-90's 240sx's... Japanese Trans/4x4/wrecking yard gurus?

There HAS to be an alternative to cutting a Chevette/P'up Trans!

Thanks for any constructive input, look forward to learning some new things, and glad to be here!!:

 

First i would get rid of the k code stuff and put on some good headers. less weight and twice the flow. you should have flat top pistons so some good heads will help out. the 289 heads don't have hard seats and have the "motor ruining" pressed in rocker studs, not to mention the worthless rail rockers that continually chew up valve tips. you are sorta at the cross roads,,,how many miles on the 289? what shape?

 

Uhhh. As much as I LOVE SBF's, I think you posted on the wrong thread, Brother.

 

A high performance cam and lifters would do wonders, in fact the heads won't do much good without them...You might get 300 hp with just the heads, but add the cam kit and your talking over 400 hp!

 

It's of particular interest to me as the gentleman I bought my 1.8l diesel from threw an M90 in, along with a inter-cooler(i believe from a Saab). It reminds me of a modern radiator, with plastic tanks on either side.

 

Huge HP is no big deal, unless you think 400 HP somehow, is.
I could talk about the huge collection of FE big block Fords I have
(mostly side oiler 427's, even a few tunnel port and cammer motors) in my warehouse.

But apparently everyone is WAAY too witty here.
Like bored children. REALLY guys?
Wow.

Spambots or WTF?

Or are you actually that...simple?

1991-1997 2.3L I4 Rodeo bell housing.
Thanks for the (no) help.

Now go get excited about a paltry 400HP.


L8r *******...