Hey there I got an 88 trooper that I got 2 years ago and when I first got it I went off roading. I kinda pushed it to far and went into a big pond of water and got stuck. I had to replace starter, alternator, oil pan gasket, axle seals front and back all new fluid. To replace the rear main I had to drop the tranny. I decided to change the clutch out, pressure plate, through out bearing, tranny seal, transfer seal, and all new bearings. A buddy of mine told me to put the throw out bearing on the tranny not on the clutch when I put it back in so I did and eveything looked great. I started driving it and my gears started grinding. It went from 2 gear to 4 gear to 5 gear to 3 gear. It kept grinding in different gears I don't know why??? Now 4th gear is really really really bad it doesn't want to go In at times and I have to force it. 1st 4th and 5th jump out of gear I have to hold them in. Can somebody help me out???????

 

Engine over rev can cause severe internal engine and transmissin failure things inside explode and don't show until partial restoration is complete.

 

pull the tranny pan and have a look at the fluid metal in fluid indiacte a must rebuild condition. no questions about it filling is a fatal and you may need a case as well as formed component on the inside of the clutch drum may have become sheared off during a free neutral drop condition when the rear wheels are spinning free no rpm limiter and full throttle the internal of the drive train can explode when it comes back into contact with traction. BOOM DONE engine dies and will not start no comperssion on one or two cylinders and when you do get the engine started again the trans mission does not function corectly...................yep pull it out and take it apart .......
do the engine first wth a leak down test and do the transmission by complete dismantel cracked and weaken parts will be found include an XRAY as aluminum swells just before it shatters and swollen parts still function for a limited time and will fail during normal stress unexpectedly.

 

Jesus Christ man you're like a bull in a china shop... you have absolutely NO ******* IDEA what you're talking about... do the internet a favor and go back to watching TV..

 

Omar, most shifting problems with that tranny are due to the hydraulic clutch needing bled. It's a bitch and can take a long time, but your problem could be as simple as that. Considering you got it into deep water there's a good chance you've got water in the trans and that's what's causing the problems. It may be too late, but check the tranny oil. That trans calls for 10-30 not gear oil.

 

Thanks Johnny. I'm the guy that wrote on your thread a while back you told me I should replace the tranny and I'm saving up for one right now cause I put everything new clutch disk, pressure plate, clutch master cylinder, flywheel, slave cylinder, all new oil, bearings, bushings, bled it for a long time held the clutch down and pushed the slave cylinder back to get every little bit of air out and it's still messing up on me. My clutch disk or tranny I'm not sure witch but it's making a really loud noise now. And when I drive it ones it hits 200 rpm it makes that noise. Idk what's going on with it but I'm just gonna put a used tranny on it cause I think this one is about to go out on me. You said this tranny takes 10-30 oil? If I put gear oil will it damage it more?

 

Yeah, that could be a lot of your problem right there... If the transmission is making noises or hard to get into gear that's one thing, but if you're driving and it's making noise that's a bad sign. It's probably too far gone at this point, but you could try draining that gear oil and refilling with 10-30 and see what happens. I've got several transmissions if you end up needing one.

 

It does that noise every time I start it up, but when I press the clutch pedal down it stops. Sometimes when i drive it and its still a cold when i get to a stop little my rpms get really low like if its still in gear or something then it slowly goes back up to normal. Ones it's really warmed up after driving 10min or so it stops and my gears start to go in a lot better, but when cold they hardly want to go in and I don't like forcing them in so I take like 10min to warm it up then drive it.

 

so when you followed your friends suggestion:
the throw out bearing: did you put the bearing in bearing forward or flange forward ?
I believe it is the same amount of space but the clutch idle arm will be angled different and the travel will be wrong.
just an idea about things that might be a possibility.
another thing is and I would check with Jonny about this cause I sure don't know and that is on a manual transmission (domestic experience here) the pilot shaft will have a brass bushing it rides in and pairs with some time this bushing gets knocked out of place,damaged and needs to be replaced. the easiest way to remove a pilot bushing is to use a wooden dowel the same size as the bushing inside diameter, you back the bushing with bearing grease and then drive the dowell in on top of the packed grease the hydraulic pressure will force the bushing out onto the dowell if you get a good tight fit. but again this is my domestic experience speaking. what do you say Johnny5hve? you ever put one in only to realize the throw out bearing is in backwards or you had an automatic to manual transmission exchange, and the pilot bushing did not get attended to except to get pumped out or otherwise destroyed so now the pilot shaft is free floating inside the clutch on the back side of the crank shaft? I know that makes some odd noise if it does not get attended to during your assembly process. what I am asking is did you verify that a pilot shaft bushing is used? with your current assembly of a manual transmission was the engine mated to an automatic transmission before the manual if so there may not be a pilot shft bushing in the matting end of the crankshaft? it makes about a 3/4 inch difference in free play and the manual transmission will go in very easy almost no alignment issue when you mate the bellhousing.
typically I would use a pilot shaft dummy one of those plastic alignment tools to start the matting and I would usually do this outside the torque tunnel before I put the engine and tranny in as one unit. that way I know for certain that the pilot shaft bushing was replaced durng assembly and that the throw out bearing is ridingwhere it should be on the clutch idler arm yoke with no rotation interference all the clutch fngers where they should be not one in one out which is what happens ( sometimes ) if you have a difficult mating the transmissin to the engine bellhousing while in and under the vehicle. AND THEN there is the slave cylinder free travel adjustment shaft I have seen these made in the back yard under a shade tree with a section of all thread and some washers and nuts........better to do it all on the bench outside the vehicle make sure it all functions correctly before you bolt it is place. but then I used to pull the front fenders and radiator as a unit as well something I did to keep folks honest when I was parked out or a hunting campsite. if the fenders are welded and you don't know the secret to lifting them off the vehicle you cannot get to any major parts even if you have the time ( I hate thieves )

 

you posted " that you have NOISE when you start the vehicle:
and the Noise stops when you engage the clutch"
what comes to my mind is:
bent clutch finger, throw out bearing in backwards, possible slave cylinder adjustment shaft extended to far or otherwise out of tolerance for the free travel of the slave cylinder. which sometime happens when you put in a new clutch because the old adjustment was extemded as far a it could go and now with a new clutch the travel is alot tighter so the adjustment shaft needs to be shorter.
IN MY EXPERIENCE: I altered my methods because I got tired of mis matched assemblies.
I assemble the transmission and engine outside the vehicle on an engine stand with water and fuel where I can actually start the engine and engage the transmission and bring the engine up to operating temperatures watch for leaks and fine tune the entire assembly before it goes into the vehicle.
ALL this written word is intended to give you ideas about what your attempting to do kind of give you a visual tour of what your listening to.
the idea that the noise is during the start condition when the clutch is not being compressed by the throw out bearing is a clue and then no noise when the clutch is being compressed by the throw out bearing.
noise tells me some thing is hitting: possible things to hit are CLUTCH FINGERS that got bent during an under vehicle assembly process, throwout bearing in backwards, slave cylinder adjustment shaft putting to much forward movement during idle condition, the bolt and nuts you used to mate the fly wheel and pressure plate is another location for noise.
sometimes these bolts and nuts are special temp treated case hardened steel and the have a specific length and thread size; they get lost during dismantle or assembly and you substitute an almost correct size except it is to long of thread and so instead of correcting the length you just thread it in believeing there is full rotational clearance but then there is a not intended bent clutch finger and now you have a noise when the engine is at idle press the clutch and the noise goes away let off the clutch and the noise comes back your clutch is weak because it has several bent fingers finger bent to the side in the opposte direction of rotation . and getting weaker as more finger are bent sliding inside and over each other to the point there is now no free pedal travel on the clutch and you find the slave cylinder is leaking as well now so stop thinking about it put the rig up on blocks and pull the engine and transmission out and examine the disassembly and while your at it look at the front fenders and radiator think aboutr where you could put in a hinge and weld all the sheet metal together so you can lift and swing the entire front of the rig over and off the frame leaving the engine mounts exposed just lean over the front wheel and pull the headers off take the motor mounts loose and pick the whole engine trasmission assembly out on a cherry picker in a couple of hours mount it on an engine stand with water, electric ,fuel and exhaust
yep makes it easier every time and longer between tear downs which makes you forget why you made it so easy to work on and nyou get bored with it and sell it for another rig. THEN THE NEXT GUY looks at what you did and thinks WHAT THE HELL????? STUPID SHADE TREE MECHANICS? right Johnny5hve?