1998 trooper has broken CV boots, help...

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09-15-2008, 08:06 PM

Matmal

Junior Member

Thread Starter

Join Date: Sep 2008

Location: United States

Posts: 1

OK so my moms car (1998 trooper) has broken front CV boots (outer) and I have replaced them on audi''s many times. It is easy on my S4 and i dont have to take the inner part of the axle off to do this. It seems with this trooper i am in for a 6 hour job unless you guys can tell me an easier way. Can i replace these boots without taking the whole car apart, draining the fluid in the diff, and taking off all the steering and shift on the fly items?

I got this on autozone, is this the correct and easiest way to do this?

The
procedure for the 1996 Trooper and Rodeo models is very similar to the
earlier procedure, however since the 1996 models utilize a
shift-on-the-fly system, certain steps will vary greatly.

The
right axle shaft is an integral part of the right halfshaft assembly.
Removal of the left axle shaft involves disassembling the
shift-on-the-fly four-wheel drive gearbox. The inboard joints of both
halfshafts fit through the axle mounting brackets, which are bolted to
the axle housing, thereby requiring the removal of the axle assembly as
a unit.

Shift the transfer case shift lever into 2H. Drive the vehicle a few feet forward and reverse to verify that the front axle is disengaged.
Set
the front wheels and steering wheel in the straight-ahead position.
Lock the steering column in this position, and remove the key.
Apply the parking brake and block the rear wheels.
Raise and safely support the front of the vehicle on jackstands.
Remove the front wheels.
Remove the radiator skid plate.
Remove the transfer case skid plates.
Drain the oil from the differential.
Unbolt
the calipers from their brackets. Support the calipers out of the way
on wire hangers. Don''t disconnect the brake hoses. For more
information, refer to Brakes .
Remove the caliper mounting brackets from the steering knuckle.
Remove
the automatic hub and brake rotor assemblies. Note the positions of the
hub snaprings, shims, and lockwashers for reassembly.
If
equipped with four-wheel ABS, unbolt the front wheel sensor brackets
from the steering knuckles. Move the sensors out of the work area. They
don''t need to be disconnected.
Remove the shift-on-the-fly four-wheel drive actuator:
1. Remove the skid plate from the shift-on-the-fly gear housing.
2. Label and disconnect the Vacuum Switching Valve (VSV) hoses and 2P connector from the gear housing.
3. Unbolt
 the VSV assembly from the left axle tube and remove it so it will not
 be damaged. Do not disconnect the 2 vacuum hoses from the body of the
 VSV.
Use
a ball joint separator tool to disconnect the upper and lower ball
joints and tie rod ends, and then remove the steering knuckles.
Matchmark and disconnect the pitman arm and idler arm. Remove the steering linkage as an assembly.
Unbolt and remove the suspension crossmember from its brackets at the lower control arms.
Matchmark
the front driveshaft flanges to the differential flange and transfer
case flange. Unbolt and remove the front driveshaft.
Support the front axle assembly with a floor jack and safety stands.
Remove
the 4 bolts which secure the right halfshaft axle mounting bracket to
the differential. Do not unbolt the left halfshaft from the axle.
Remove the mounting bracket bolts which secure the right and left axle mounting brackets to the vehicle''s frame.
Separate
the right halfshaft and axle mounting bracket assembly from the
differential and allow it to rest on the lower control arm. If only the
right halfshaft needs servicing, remove it from the vehicle and skip to
Step 23.

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Be careful not to damage the CV-joints, boots, or splined shafts when removing the axle.
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Follow these steps to remove the axle assembly:
1. Verify that the axle assembly is securely supported by the floor jack. Remove the safety stands.
2. First, slide the axle to the left to release the splined stub axle of the right halfshaft.
3. Next, lower the axle slightly and slide it to the right so the left halfshaft clears the left lower control arm.
4. Finally, completely lower the axle from the vehicle.
Remove the right halfshaft from the vehicle. Follow these steps to remove the right axle shaft seal and bearing:
1. Remove the snapring from the splined shaft.
2. Remove the shaft bearing. Use a puller if necessary, but don''t damage the shaft or splines.
3. Remove the inner snapring.
4. Remove the axle mounting bracket and oil seal from the right halfshaft.
Drain the lubricant from the shift-on-the-fly gearbox.
With
the axle out of the vehicle, unbolt the left halfshaft from the axle
case. Remove the halfshaft together with the left axle mounting bracket.
Loosen the shift-on-the-fly actuator mounting bolts in a crisscross pattern. Remove the actuator assembly from the gearbox.
Unbolt the shift-on-the-fly actuator gearbox from the axle tube flange.
Slowly
pull the gearbox straight off the axle tube. Be careful not to loose
the sleeve and clutch gear if they fall out of the gearbox.
Remove the outer snapring from the left axle shaft. Draw the axle shaft out of the axle tube.
Remove the left axle shaft oil seal from the axle tube. Be careful not to damage the sealing surface.
Inspect the axle shaft, bearing, and clutch gear components for any damage:
1. Inspect
 the axle shaft splines for damage, and replace as necessary. Use a dial
 gauge and center blocks to inspect the shaft run-out. If run-out
 exceeds 0.02 in. (0.5mm), replace the shaft. Don''t try to heat the axle
 shaft to correct excess run-out.
2. Insert
 the clutch gear into the axle shaft and inspect the motion and play of
 the inner bearing and needle bearing. If either bearing exhibits
 smoothness or play, they should be replaced.
3. Check
 the clutch sleeve for wear. First, coat the clutch gear with gear oil,
 and then slide the clutch sleeve back and forth over the gear to
 simulate operation. If the sleeve and gear exhibit smoothness or play,
 they must be replaced.
4. Check the clutch sleeve groove width. Groove width should not exceed 0.28 in. (7.1mm).
5. Check the external diameter of the narrowest part of the clutch gear. The diameter shouldn''t exceed 1.456 in. (36.98mm).
Remove the inner snapring from the axle shaft bearing.
Remove the inner shaft bearing:
1. Install tool No. J-37452, or an equivalent bearing remover onto the axle shaft.
2. Place the axle shaft and the bearing remover into a press.
3. Press the bearing from the axle shaft. Don''t damage the axle shaft.
Remove the needle bearing from the axle shaft clutch gear:
1. Support the axle shaft in a padded vise.
2. Install
 tool No. J-26941 into the bearing. Install tool No. J-2619-01, or an
 equivalent slide hammer onto the bearing removal tool.
3. Work the slide hammer to gradually remove the needle bearing from the axle shaft.

<a name="hd1-1-1-2-3-1">To install:</a>

Use
new self-locking nuts and color-coded bolts when assembling the axle
assembly mounts and suspension components. Suspension fasteners should
be tightened to their final torque specifications when the vehicle is
on the ground.

Clean and dry all axle and shift-on-the-fly gearbox sealing surfaces.
Thoroughly
lubricate a new axle shaft seal with clean gear oil. Use tool No.
J-41693, or an equivalent seal driver to install it into the axle tube.
Use tool No. J-41694, or an equivalent bearing driver to install a new needle bearing.
Install a new inner snapring.
Use tool No. J-4169, or an equivalent press base to press a new bearing onto the axle shaft.
Install the axle shaft into the axle tube. Don''t damage the new oil seal. Install a new outer snapring.
Lubricate the clutch gear and clutch sleeve with SAE 75W-90 GL-5 gear oil and install them.
Apply
a 1mm-wide bead of liquid gasket to the axle tube sealing surface.
Install the shift-on-the-fly gearbox onto the axle tube before the
sealant cures.
Tighten the shift-on-the-fly gearbox bolts to 85 ft. lbs. (116 Nm) in a two-step crisscross pattern.
Install the shift position switch onto the actuator and tighten it to 29 ft. lbs. (39 Nm).
Install the actuator assembly:
1. Apply a 1mm-wide bead of liquid gasket to the actuator sealing surface. Don''t allow the sealant to cure before installation.
2. Align the shift fork arms with the groove of the clutch sleeve and install the actuator.
3. Tighten the actuator mounting bolts to 10 ft. lbs. (13 Nm) in a crisscross sequence.
Install the spacer onto the left front halfshaft.
Install
the halfshaft and axle mounting bracket assembly onto the axle. Tighten
the bolts to 85 ft. lbs. (116 Nm) in a crisscross sequence.
After the sealant has fully cured, refill the shift-on-the-fly gearbox with SAE 75W-90 GL-5 gear oil.
Assemble the right halfshaft and axle mounting bracket assembly, as follows:
1. Install the axle mounting bracket onto the halfshaft.
2. Lubricate and install a new oil seal.
3. Install a new inner snapring.
4. Install a new bearing.
5. Install a new outer snapring.
Place the right halfshaft and axle mounting bracket assembly into position, and rest it on the right lower control arm.
Position the axle and left halfshaft assembly on a floor jack. Raise the axle into position.
Fit
the right halfshaft and axle mounting bracket assembly into the
differential. Make sure the splined stub axle shaft is fully seated. Be
careful not to distort the oil seal when connecting the right mounting
bracket to the differential.
Tighten the right halfshaft and axle mounting bracket assembly mounting bolts to 85 ft. lbs. (116 Nm) in a crisscross sequence.
Raise the axle assembly into its final position and support it with safety stands.
Install
the mounting bracket bolts, nuts, and spacers. The washer fits under
the bolt and the spacer is used with the nut. Tighten the mounting nuts
and bolts to 112 ft. lbs. (152 Nm).
Install the steering knuckles and assemble any suspension components that were disconnected or removed.
Install the brake backing plates and the rotor and hub assemblies.
Install the caliper mounting brackets and the brake calipers.
Install the VSV onto the axle tube. Reconnect the vacuum hoses and the 2P connector. Then, install the VSV skid plate.
Refill
the differential with gear oil. Check the oil level in the gear case.
Use new crush washers and tighten both drain plugs to 58 ft. lbs. (78
Nm).
Verify that all axle assembly mounting components have been installed.
Align the front driveshaft matchmarks. Install the driveshaft flange bolts and tighten them to 46 ft. lbs. (63 Nm).
Install the suspension crossmember and tighten the bolts to 58 ft. lbs. (78 Nm).
Install the steering linkage assembly.
If equipped, reconnect the ABS front wheel sensors.
Install the radiator skid plate. Tighten the bolts to 58 ft. lbs. (78 Nm).
Install the transfer case skid plates and tighten their bolts to 27 ft. lbs. (37 Nm).
If necessary, bleed the brake system.
Install the front wheels.
Lower the vehicle and remove the rear wheel blocks.
Tighten the suspension bushing fasteners to their final torque specifications.
Verify that the front axle and hubs engage and disengage properly.
If equipped with shift-on-the-fly four-wheel drive, make sure the VSV and actuator function correctly.
Check and adjust the front wheel alignment and ride height.
Road test the vehicle.

09-22-2008, 06:23 PM

93TrooperLS

Junior Member

Join Date: Sep 2008

Location: United States

Posts: 3

Thx for your input. Im a nOOb who just aquired a very clean 93TrooperDOHC LS. I appreciate info like yours. Since Im a DIY''ER this is gold to me.

If I learn any new tricks I will share my info with my new family. Lets help each other out, so we can keep more green in our pockets, and nothand itto the Indy or Dealer.. Have a good one.. [img]smileys/smiley16.gif[/img]

11-07-2008, 05:32 PM

96gxe5spd

Junior Member

Join Date: Nov 2008

Location: United States

Posts: 2

I might opt for some split-type boots if you want quick and easy. You should be able to get them from any auto-parts store. All you have to do is cut the old ones off, pack the joint with grease, and put the new ones on. They are split down the side so it goes around the axle.

If you''re going through that much trouble you might as well replace the whole axle or at least the CV joint itself. I''ve always been told replacing the boot is a band-aid, since dirt and stuff has already gotten through the old boot and into the joint. After that it''s just a matter of time before the old click-click-BOOM. This is what I''ve been told about Nissans and VW''s, it may not be true for isuzu or Volvo.