So I was looking through the Hayes Manual the other day, and noticed that the 3.2L V6 DOHC has timing belts, not chains. Oops. Well, now we have over 115k miles on the Rodeo, and I'm thinking it may be time to take care of those, as well as the intake gasket since the other posts lead me to believe that that may be what is causing my erratic idle. How bad are they to change, and what did they cost. I haven't looked into it too much, as it was my wife's daily driver. However we now have another vehicle, so I can work on something and not worry about it being done monday morning. Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks

 

Some advice is to change your water pump while you're down there, also heard some great advice to line up the timing belt to top dead center before you remove it I have to change my water pump on my newly purchased Isuzu lol, and probably the timing belt too, so I don't know if you need advice ask me in a little bit, I haven't torn her apart yet but i've done a timing belt on a 4runner like 4 times lol.

I can take pics if you get stuck too probably.

 

Go with a new water pump and a new belt tensioner while you have everything off. I had to do a new pump, so did the belt while I was at it. It did after all only have 158,000 miles on it ........

Search my old posts and you'll see some tips on getting the belt aligned. It's not that involved - just be careful as it is an interference engine. The pulleys have marks as does the belt. I pulled mine through several revolutions with the breaker bar before I put the plugs back in and fired it up.

 

Thanks for the information guys! Yeah, I figured I'd change the water pump while in there, since I'd have it off already.

I may hold off on that for now. We're thinking of putting it up for sale. We don't really need 3 SUV's, including the Rodeo, Nissan Armada and Jeep Wrangler. Maybe a car would be nice. We bought the Armada to replace the Rodeo. We have a boat that is over 5000lbs w/ trailer and supplies, so it was too much for the Rodeo. Hate to see it go, but it we just don't need it anymore.

 

Hello,
First post on this forum, so glad we have this internet thing now.
Had my car in at the mechanics today, after checking the timing belt, he informed me that it is cracked and needs replacing. He quoted me almost $800 to change all of the pulley's, belts and water pump.
So, I'm going to put my mechanics hat on this weekend and replace the water pump and timing belt, possibly the tensioner.
From reading this forum I am looking for a few tips from you guys on how to best do this. I also have the following questions:
Is it necessary to remove the radiator?
Are there any special tools I will need to perform this procedure?
Will the TDC marks be easily visible when I get in there?
What is the easiest way to get the engine into TDC with an automatic transmission?

Thanks in advance,
-Edward

 

i just did this job in august....i had just over $200 in parts for the tensioner, pullies/idlers, water pump, t-belt and t-stat (you can get a kits on ebay).
it takes 4 or 5 hrs to change (that's me, not a professional mechanic).
i'd take a weekend and do it myself and save $500-600

 

Totally did not answer any of the questions asked...

 

Edward,

I have been turning wrenches professionally for many years now and can tell you that you do not need to remove the radiator, I don't believe there are any special tools besides the possibility for some Torx fasteners. Also the TDC markings are usually highly visible, although sometimes the pulleys need to be cleaned first. As far as the automatic trans is concerned, chock the wheels and put it in neutral with the battery still connected. Then disconnect the battery for safety and to preserve the batteries power. I will be replacing the timing belt, tensioner and the idler pulleys as well as the water pump on my 2001 Rodeo V6 with an auto trans tomorrow. I will let you know if I find anything unusual.

Joe

 

I just tackled this job about 7 months ago? Anyways it was fairly easy you need a pin or a paper clip or something, a C clamp to compress tensioner if you do not replace it ( I didn't but, I sold mine ) I removed my radiator to allow clearance for an impact gun but I don't know if it's necessary with hand tools ... and if hand tools will not break it lose you can bump the starter i beleive (Worked on a v6 toyota for me) The crankshaft bolt is a 24MM I would suggest a long socket, or extensions as the pulleys are deep also you need a pulley puller, and a ratcheting 10mm wrench for the alternator tensioner device would prove worthy I only had a conventional wrench which took forever. Anyways here's a thread to help you line up top dead center which is a pain, as there's 2 marks and 2 marks on the engine itself

https://isuzuforums.com/forum/showthread.php?p=40354#post40354
Those are my tips
Thank god for me coming back and helping you, Some information should be stickied... Oh? How dare I? lol

 

Thanks for the additional info. Now if only I get a decent tax return, it will be time to get some things done. We've decided to go ahead and keep the Rodeo. It seems to be running better (used SeaFoam, helped with the erratic throttle) and I hate to get rid of it. With only 120,000 miles on it, it should keep running for a long time (as long as I change the timing belts before it breaks). And it only gets driven about 10 miles a day.