Im in the market of picking up a 1998 Isuzu Rodeo fully loaded with leather interior and sunroof, anything i should know or check before i buy this vehicle? it has 250,000kms (155,000miles) no rust, getting it for $4000 canadian. not sure if its a good deal? but am also wondering what kind of problems these things have if any? need something for the winter. let me know guys thanks

 

Check tosee ifthe tranny shifts smoothly and doesnt slip (guessing its auto). Ive been told the power window motors tend to go out after awhile and are a PITA to swap out. Check the oil, plugs, etc. If you can, get a trusted mechanic to check it out too. $4000 canadian isn'ttoo bad for a fully loaded one, butthat milege..meh..you might be able to find an amigo w/ less miles for around the same price. Thats just me though. Good luck

 

i bought a 98 for 700 us dollars BUT it needed a transmission i paid another 600 for that and i am driving fine now and have 1300 in it fully loaded LS with leather cd moon roof tinted windows etc etc...the issues i have delt with so far (3 months) is the transmission of course and the engine eats a little bit to much oil but mine has 188k miles on it and after reading up on it this engine is known for eating about 1 quart every 3000 miles mine is about 1 quart every 1000...but SEA FOAM TO THE RESCUE (hopefully)

water pumps i know are an issue as well

good luck with your future purchase but I would try and talk them down a bit..I love my rodeo looks cool and looks like an expensive suv without the expense (looks like it to me anyway)

if you don't buy this one definitely buy a rodeo or an Isuzu they are just cool and not a million of them around

 

These are the most commonissues you can expect (if the previous owner hasn't already dealt with them):


* Intermittant windshield wiper control either already has, or soon will go out. This is easily & cheaply corrected by replacing a $2 relay in the Alarm control IC located outboard of the glove box;


* It does, or will, use oil like crazy! but this can often (not always) be corrected by running CRC Engine Flush through it 2X per year to clean out the abnormally small oil return holes in pistons behind rings;


* It does, or will, knock like crazy on reg'lar gas, but this usually can be corrected by (a) thoroughly cleaning out the EGR tube through the intake plenum (not difficult), and (b) keeping the EGR valve & PCV valve clean & operable;


* It does, or will, thunk, or clunk on starting off around a curve from a dead stop, but this is easily corrected by removing the drive shaft & cleaning/regreasing the slip yoke - but it has to be done every year or two in my experience;


* The fuel level indicator rheostat on the fuel pump will eventually go south causing CEL to illuminate & "low fuel" light to flash and leaving you without a working fuel gauge - but this can be correected by dropping the fuel tank & replacing the $40 (US) rheostat on the fuel pump. Or you can just ignore it & keep track of milage since last fillup like I do (lazy, I know).