Ya its me again, same ol' problem, hard cold start, grinding noise from the TPS for a second when turning ignition on, codes: 1310,1326,1125. The latter points to the TPS, did some testing and I think I found something. Now again, I'm far away from mechanics/parts/references. If anybody outthere with a 2000/2001 rodeo V6 3.2 and a multimeter could confirm what I found by testing a working one that would be a big help
Here's what I did and found:
unplug the TPS connector, turn ignition on and take volt readings

"
The main connector has 8 wires. 6 of the wires are for the two throttle position sensors and two are for the throttle motor....
the throttle motor has a green wire (+ power) and a blue wire(- ground)
the first tps sensor,TPS1 has three wires green(pcm - sensor ground) blue (sensor signal output)and red(5v reference voltage)
TPS2 has three wires as well green/white (pcm - sensor ground) blue/white (tps2 output signal) and red/white(5v reference voltage)....

4 3 2 1
8 7 6 5

1=pcm(-) tps1 green
2=motor + green
3=motor - blue
4=pcm (-) tps2 green/white
5=pcm (+5v) tps1 red
6=tps1 signal blue
7=tps2 signal blue/white
8=pcm (+5v) tps2 red/white

"


I get both +5V references (to battery ground and pcm sensor ground)

I get 4.1V on tps2 reference-to-signal (8-7) (should be 4.2?)

NOW I get ZERO on tps1 reference-to-signal (5-6)


all wires have perfect continuity between TPS-connector and ECM-connector. So if I should get something and don't get anything that would basically mean my ECM is fried? Additionally the 4.1 on tps2 seem to low as well.

So I need somebody to tell me if there should be a voltage on tps1 reference-to-signal and confirm voltage on tps2 before I go about a new ECM
Could a fried ECM also explain the other codes (circuit malfunction of the ION-sensing) since I can't find anything else wrong with that eiter?
thanks in advance!


p.s. here's what the computer works with but unless I splice the wires I can't take a reading with everything connected:
"


the signal on tps1....pin 6....the red wire will go from about 0.8 volts closed throttle to about 4.0 volts wide open throttle....

the signal on tps2....pin 7...the blue/white wire will go from 4.2volts closed throttle to 1.1 volts wide open throttle....

"

 

c'mon guys, nobody can tell me if I'm onto something?

 

basically all I need to know is if the circuit (TPS1) is dead because it's fried in the computer or the computer simply doesn't "turn it on" until it gets a reading from the other circuit (TPS2) - anybody?

 

...bump... still on the same problem, getting tired of the car, can't seem to find anything. At least I got my answer to this thread over at planetisuzoo (http://forum.planetisuzoo.com/viewto...34502&start=25 ), can't thank the guy (Buster28) for they don't let me register (my providers IP is on some blacklist) - hey Gizmo, I noticed you are on both forums, maybe you can get me in contact with the guy, I have another question about the resistance on the sensor grounds, I got 5 ohms on both pins 1&4 instead of 0?)
but at least I know the signal voltages are somewhat in range (although a little lower on pin6 blue (4.1V)).
Wiggled on the harness where I could with running engine - nothing. replaced the two signal wires (blue and blue/white) with new wires to no avail, actually the grinding noise from the TB got worse (the throttle plate sometimes vibrates for like 5 seconds now when turning ignition on).
Sometimes after a restart the reduced power is on and it feels like I got barely half the hp (I can still go up to about 75mph under full throttle but thats it), 15mpg highway is bad and the annoying hard cold start (a minute or so of cranking on and off), codes 1125, 1310, 1326.

No mechanics around here (Belize) who can help me, just telling me to change this and that sensor (see my post about the non-existent knock sensor, probably a misinterpretation of the 1326 code)
Got a new (used) ignition control module on the way...

any other ideas what to look for before I put a charge in the trunk and run it over a cliff?