I cleaned the maf with carb cleaner, changed plugs, and oil. So far it hasn’t stalled yet, the rpms even went up slightly. Ill keep you guys posted with the results. Mines is an 03 V6 and was shutting off randomly

 

Just wanted to thank everyone, and please don't waste your money taking it to a dealership. My 2001 Rodeo has for several months been giving me mild fluctuations in idle; most of the time they didn't even show up on the tach. Then over the last week we started having problems with it stalling at low rpm, especially in a turn (Of course, my daughters chose to keep this a secret from me for some reason). Then a couple days ago I experienced it, but the fluctuations were rather wild and nasty, and yesterday both the "Check Engine" and "Reduced Power" lights came on and the dang thing was a danger to drive.

At first I was going to wait for my wife to get home with the car that has my diagnostic module connected in it, but after reading this thread I chose to hit up both the EGR and MAF sensor as they are REAL easy to do (with a little encouragement, even my daughters could handle, though they would pretend to not be able to in order to get someone else do it). I ran out and got a can of Carb cleaner, a can of MAF cleaner (leaves no residue, supposedly, and on those thin wires that is kind of important), and a can of Chemtool B-12 (Seafoam is also used, Chemtool B-12 is claimed to be more aggressive).

The EGR comes off easy - two bolts and an electric connector. The MAF sensor is easy also - a few connectors and pops right out.

Though I doubt the MAF sensor was a problem in my case due to its clean appearance, I sprayed it down real well including those little wells where the wires go into the inside of the body (on the INSIDE of the cylinder), just in case.

I flipped the EGR upside-down, supported, and poured Chemtool into/onto both holes and let soak. The EGR was a carbon mess with caking all around the inside of the large port, and what at first appeared to be a completely clogged smaller port was where a spring loaded valve resides. Carbon residue had so encrusted the spring loaded valve that it was obvious to touch it would have a very hard time functioning properly. After soaking everything for about 20 minutes I used a pick (similar to an awl or ice pick, but I would suggest something a little more delicate) to clean out some of the carbon crust around the smaller valved port, dumped the filthy solvent out, blew in carb cleaner, let that sit then dumped, worked on getting more carbon out of the large port with a rag and small finger (a small brush would have been nice), repeated the process a few times letting the soaks run for 10 to 20 minutes and worked the spring loaded valve until it worked smoothly and no obstruction was visible, and put it all back together (Sun was going down and it was getting cold). I also sprayed the engine ports where the EGR came off from with a fairly large dose of carb cleaner and let that sit for a while prior to reassembly.

Because of the other chemicals it took ten to twenty seconds of cranking to start the vehicle, but it is running perfectly fine, no fluctuations whatsoever. If it wasn't for this forum I would have been chasing ignition modules and speculating on water in the gas; THANK-YOU very much!!!