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2002 Axiom - lurches forward

  #1  
Old 11-17-2008, 10:17 PM
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<DIV>I really needan expert opinion on a problem with my 2002 Isuzu Axiom. Regardless of whether I come to an abrupt stop or gradual stop, the Axiom lurches forward after coming to a stop. Example: come to a complete halt using the brake; wait 1 minute for stop light to change; immediately after taking foot off the brake, the Axiom lurches forward. Second example: come to a complete halt using brake; immediately take foot off brake, the Axiom lurches forward; immediately brake again, take foot off brake, it does NOT lurch. The lurch happens only after taking my foot off the brake the first time, as if the trans is attempting to return to its "ground zero" point. </DIV>
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<DIV>Ordinarily I could live with this, but at least one time I felt as though if I let my foot off the brake I could rocket into orbit, but the engine was not racing.When this happened, I glanced at the tachometer, and it was holding steady at 1200 rpm. That may sound a little high, and it does typically idle around 1000 - 1100 rpm, but in this particular case it felt as though I was actually having to hold it back by mashing the heck out of the brake. This Axiom wants to GO!!!!!! The big problem: My kids are driving this vehicle to college. I want their vehicle to be perfect. </DIV>
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<DIV>So today I called my local Isuzu dealership and explained the problem to the service advisor. He had no suggestions, and scheduled me for an appointment this Friday to run diagnostics to see IF there is a problem. The internet is full of scenarios where the technician''s diagnosis is "no trouble found", but yet the problem definitely exists. My goal is to have a few suggestions when I visit the dealership Friday 11/21/2008 at 9am.</DIV>
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<DIV>Normally I can come up with common sense conclusions on problems like this, but I am stumped. My deductions: it sounds like the accelerator is sticking, but the rpm would be much higher if that were the case. It also sounds like perhaps a vacuum hose problem, but I cannot visually see such a problem. It sounds likethe auto trans controller may need to be re-programmed or replaced, but I would suspect that I would be having other shifting problems if that was defective. This Axiom runs flawlessly except for this lurching problem. I am the second owner, and the original owner babied this vehicle. It has never been abused. Mint condition. </DIV>
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<DIV>Does any of this ring a bell?</DIV>
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<DIV>I fear that my kids will plow into the car in front of them, or shoot through a store-front window like a cannonballwhile parking at a convenience store! </DIV>
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<DIV>Any advice would be greatly appreciated. </DIV>
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<DIV>I also would like to hear your opinion on how to correct the way too stiff ride when using "sport mode", and the bouncy, floaty ride when using the "normal mode"... if you have a chance. Otherwise, I love the vehicle.</DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV>Thanks!!!.... John in Dallas
</DIV>
 
  #2  
Old 11-18-2008, 01:10 PM
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Could be any of the items you mention. Also try a spray can of throttle body cleaner on the linkage.
The tires are the biggest change you can make in the ride quality. I had Yokohama as the last set. I liked them.
Ride improved alot. Needed tires for a long trip and did not have time to get the tires from Tirerack.com. So bought the Goodyear Assurance triple tread 235/65r17 locally. Same ride quality as the Yoko''s but quieter. Also look at the thread in this Axiom section titled "shocks" for more ideas besides shocks. BTW my RMP is usually 550rpm at idle after warmup. Could be a loose/intermittent sensor connection.
 
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Old 11-18-2008, 01:18 PM
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Also check the MAF (mass air flow sensor) if its bad you should be getting a check engine light. Know anybody that has an odb 2 reader to check for codes?
I''m in Downingtown, Pa.

 
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Old 11-18-2008, 01:52 PM
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My check engine light is not on. Thanks for the info.
 
  #5  
Old 11-19-2008, 08:05 AM
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Hi Lyle,
It does sounds like your idle speed is too high which is controlled by the computer. The first items that I would check would be the power steering pressure switch and clean the throttle plate. The easiest way to check the pressure switch is to just disconnect it and if the idle goes down then you know that is it. The other things that I have seen to cause high idle has set a trouble code(s) and turned on the check engine light. I have also seen times that when you are applying the brake the edge of your shoe would catch the side of the accelerator pedal. This is very easy to do and you might not even realize it, I still catch myself doing this on my 01 Rodeo.
Hope this helps and please keep me posted.
Rick Kimray
 
  #6  
Old 11-19-2008, 10:20 AM
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I wonder if this problem could also be the infamous "thump" or "clunk" that is described in this forum by many Rodeo and Axiom owners - going all the way back to 2001. If so, the consensus "fix" is to remove and disassemble the drive shaft slip yoke, grease the spline, enlarge the vent hole, since most techs say that the original vent hole is too small, and re-assemble. I found about 50 hits on this topic last nighton the internet.Unfortunately most folks who had the slip yokegreased say that it DID NOT permanently fix the"thump" problem. Some said that the problem returned withinjust a few weeks.


At least I have a few ideas now. I am already skeptical about this dealer, because this problem (if it IS the infamous Isuzu "thump"), is well -known. If the dealer says my trans is shot, I am walking away. I never thought that it was the problem, but you know that some dealerships will stoop to unprecedented lows in order to make a buck.


Thanks for the input. I will re-post after the service appointment.


If you have any other ideas, by all means - please post! I will continue to monitor this site.





Edited by: Lyle
 
  #7  
Old 11-19-2008, 12:23 PM
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The "thump" from the drive shaft slip yoke should not give you a high idle. You might have multiple concerns. The mild thump from the drive shaft can be corrected by cleaning and greasing the splines. I recommend using red crown #488-1, it seems to hold up better. You will still need to address the high idle concern.
 
  #8  
Old 11-19-2008, 01:53 PM
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Now for the ultimate question: how much $$ is a REASONABLE price for doing the slip yoke work? I am a do-it-yourself''er, but recently had spinal fusionsurgery and cannot handle this type ofjob now.Inmy searchfor info last night, I found a range of $40 to $600.To me,the $40 charge probably did not involve dis-assembling the drive shaft. And the $600 charge sounds as though the dealer used liquid gold to grease the spline. So I am hopingthat the real price is somewhere in the middle!
 
  #9  
Old 11-20-2008, 06:42 AM
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A reasonable charge should be around $100-$130. This should take of parts and labor.
 
  #10  
Old 11-20-2008, 07:16 AM
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Thank you! Go Wolfpack!!!!
 

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