Help with instructions to replace rotors on 94 Trooper
Hello great forum members,
My teenage son deceided to take the lazy mans way out on a brake job in his (MY OLD AND STILL LOVED) 94 Trooper. His pads in front were partly metal to metal on rotors and his friends advised him just to change pads and it would be fine. WRONG!
He changed just pads and the driver side rotor was half destroyed already from metal on old ones. Of course it was grabbing the new ones and making terrible noise. He admitted he was trying to save money as he is a college kid. Well after driving this way for a week. His brakes went to floor and ABS and Brake light went on. I looked at master and its empty! My guess as its raining hard and dark here in Seattle area and I have not pulled wheel yet is the pad probably got so hott rubbing it serperated from metal backing and was floating so to speak and grabbing. I say this as when you brake in reverse it jolts to stop and thumps.
My other guess is the hot pads caused caliper or calipers to fail and leak fluid. So I was on way to buy either a caliper rebuild kit or new caliper. Not sure if they are repairable yet? What I am sure of is the Rotors are toast.
Here lies the issue. Every front brake system I have ever done is floating type rotor that comes off after removal of caliper. This appears to be locked on hub Rotor. I did some searching on net and have found from explanations as its easy as pie to pull off, to the extreme that its terrible to pull off and you will strip screws and bolts and good luck getting lockwasher off.
I know this is the experts site. So I am here groveling for some guidance in the process to make it as least painful to do in the driving rain as possible. I am good brake skills. Just maybe some tutorial. I looked at Haynes manual and its useless.
Thanks so much
My teenage son deceided to take the lazy mans way out on a brake job in his (MY OLD AND STILL LOVED) 94 Trooper. His pads in front were partly metal to metal on rotors and his friends advised him just to change pads and it would be fine. WRONG!
He changed just pads and the driver side rotor was half destroyed already from metal on old ones. Of course it was grabbing the new ones and making terrible noise. He admitted he was trying to save money as he is a college kid. Well after driving this way for a week. His brakes went to floor and ABS and Brake light went on. I looked at master and its empty! My guess as its raining hard and dark here in Seattle area and I have not pulled wheel yet is the pad probably got so hott rubbing it serperated from metal backing and was floating so to speak and grabbing. I say this as when you brake in reverse it jolts to stop and thumps.
My other guess is the hot pads caused caliper or calipers to fail and leak fluid. So I was on way to buy either a caliper rebuild kit or new caliper. Not sure if they are repairable yet? What I am sure of is the Rotors are toast.
Here lies the issue. Every front brake system I have ever done is floating type rotor that comes off after removal of caliper. This appears to be locked on hub Rotor. I did some searching on net and have found from explanations as its easy as pie to pull off, to the extreme that its terrible to pull off and you will strip screws and bolts and good luck getting lockwasher off.
I know this is the experts site. So I am here groveling for some guidance in the process to make it as least painful to do in the driving rain as possible. I am good brake skills. Just maybe some tutorial. I looked at Haynes manual and its useless.
Thanks so much
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