Hello everyone,
I am a relatively new member from Austin Texas and this is my first post on your forum. I searched for this topic but did not find anything so I would like to ask for input, if I may.
My wife's 1997 Trooper has 120,000 miles and needs to have the CV boots replaced. I do all the work myself on my cars but have not done the CV boot replacement thing yet on any vehicle. Is there anything extra special that I need to know or do that will make this a relatively smooth operation? I'm looking for tips and tricks that only experience can offer. Other than your input my only other guidance will be my Haynes manual, the rest I will just have to figure out on my own like I usually do.
Thanks for any help you can give me. [img]smileys/smiley20.gif[/img]

well, it is not a simple operation. you need toliterally dismantle everything that is attatched to the cv boot down to the hub. It is verry good to have the haynes manual, but if you can get the chiltons manual to help you out as a secondary reference, then better. What I like about haynes manuals is that they make the most difficult tasks a walk in the park. If you follow the manual step by step you should be able to perform that cv boot change flawlessly. My recommendations are to be ready to leave the trooper parked without a tire for a week, after all you are a novice and you want your repair to be done properly. take your time doing every step like the book says with no hurry. Be shure to have a buddy that knows about mechanics that you can call.


Good luck!

if i recall correctly on this u have 2 go as far as removing or at the very least lower the front diff 2 do the job correctly

Hello, I am near Austin, in Bastrop County and my '86 Trooper has a torn boot. I have seen "take-apart" boots in the past for other vehicles. Are there any that will fit the Trooper? If so , sure would save a lot of tear down.

I too have seen the replacement boots and have used one myself. Most auto parts stores can get them if they don't have them. They are easy to use. It is still a messy job but a LOT less work than pulling the shafts. A small air grinder will ease the band removal on the old one, and they give you screw type clamps to hold the new one on. You do have to be careful of dirt while doing it, and packing with the right CV grease is critical. You may not want the replacement if you go off road in watery or rough conditions.


If you dismantle, cleanliness is again imperative, and caution while sliding the joint apart (if you can't slide the new boot down the shaft) to make sure the ball bearings don't come out. It is not too bad a job once you get the shaft out. Good luck.

Just did this on my 95. Takes about 2 hours per side. Replace the ball joints and repack the wheel bearings while you are at it. Not too expensive. Hardest thing is removing the ball joints from the spindle. The rest is just time. Harbor Freight has a CV boot pliers set that works great. About $20. One cuts the band and the other crimps the new one. Then you are done for another 120000 miles.

Well, most places around Austin quoted me $400+. I was referred to Hardin's Drive Axle in North Austin on Beck circle. He re-built both joints on the driver side axle, put new boots on and the bill was about $206. 512-218-0477 is his#. I'm just too old to do this kind of work now. Glad to read about some one else in the Austin are with the same problem. Good luck and let us know how you come out.

Thanks to all for your priceless input. I got the job done, took several days and have had no problems with the boots. However,now I have a leak coming from the passenger side seal on the front differential soI''m gonna have to take it apart again, sucks! Oh well, a small price to pay for reliable transportation and a pretty good looking vehicle. I have also had to take the top end of the motor off to repair the noisy valve train, but I'm good to go for another 100K hopefully.


Cheers

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