Cooling system question, 95 trooper 3.2L SOHC
 

Long post warning!


Hello all, I'm new here and to Isuzu vehicles in general. I am in a weird situation and wondering if anyone else here has an answer for me. I have a 1995 Trooper with the 3.2L SOHC engine and I also have a broken water neck on said engine. My Chilton's doesn't even try to touch on this part :mad: (I know they break the dealer said it happens frequently and have an updated design that requires a different lower rad hose). Ok, here goes, the upper rad hose connects to a steel tube that runs the entire length of the engine under the intake manifold assembly. I have removed both the upper and lower parts of the intake to gain access. The pipe runs to the back of the engine where it tees off to the cylinder heads. The lower rad hose connects to an aluminum water neck via the t-stat housing and that part was over torqued by the prev. owner (which is why he got rid of the truck) that caused the part in question to break at the lower most bolt on the t-stat housing, this part connects with four bolts to the engine block at the front but is positioned in a manner that the rear two bolts cannot be removed without removing that steel pipe mentioned above. My question is how in the world do I remove this pipe and what are the torque specs for the aluminum water neck where it meets the block? ANY help you can provide will be greatly appreciated. If any more information is needed please ask.

Thanks!

TrukTek :confused:

so it turns out...
 

With a soft rubber mallet you can knock the water manifold (steel tube) out of the tee. This manifold has a rubber O-ring that will swell in the presence of coolant making it seal. You can then rotate the manifold up and towards the front of the engine and easily remove the water neck (water outlet). Replace the gaskets, lower manifold, fuel rail and injectors, wiring harness, common chamber (upper intake manifold), throttle body, upper section of wiring harness, throttle cable, various hoses, t-stat, and vacuum lines. Be sure to note, however, that removing the water manifold will likely make quite a mess in the engine valley :(. A shop vac is handy to get rid of the mess:). Follow all of the torque specs and patterns. Oh yeah, never EVER torque the t-stat housing bolts past the specified 14 lb-ft or you get to do what I just did.

I know I just answered my own question but I hoped it may help someone else out there. Seeing how the dealer mentioned "that thing breaks all the time" and "a new one is $210.00 plus it has an updated design that needs an updated hose at an additional cost."

good luck out there fellow wrenchers!