Does anyone know how to test whether the ICM is fully operational or
not? Yesterday, car was hard to start, then it started and drove down the road but twice, the panel lights lighted up, and there was loss of power, then went away. Battery connections weren't lost, so I suspect the ICM. In the Haynes book, states you need special equipment to test the DIS system on these cars - 3.2L DIS based engine. Or is the only way to replace it and cross your fingers - i hate intermittent type problems - NO DTC codes. Frustrating. Thanks, -J

 

I have had 7 Rodeo's. From 95 to 03. The most odd problems seem to me to centered around electrical connectors. A 95 i once had refused to start right. Two different mechanics put in a fuel pump, filter, coil packs, ignition module, etc. Then gave up individually. I crawled under and found that the crank angle sensor wire was chaffed right around the oil pan. I tapped up the bare wires and covered it with a piece of garden hose as a protector and then it started and ran fine. I have had my 01 and 02 have an erractic fuel sending unit issue, the 01 was supposed to have a bad computer ended up being a bad connection near the battery. This has happened to others with the same year.

But to get back to your question, you can take the ignition control module to your local parts store and they should be able to hook it up to test. Make sure they run the test 3 times and if you buy a new one, run the test on it at least twice. Also, do not forget about the dielectric grease that you need to keep it from overheating. It is suppossed to help transfer heat to the mount to dissipate the heat. Should be relatively easy to do for them. If memory serves me the 97 has the icm up front with 3 connectors and the coil packs. Remove the coils and then there could be up to 3 nuts below to remove the icm. Let us know how it works out.

 

Thanks, very helpful information. Will explore this issue some more. -J

 

After reading some more on the internet, there seems to be a lot of issues with Rodeos and electricl problems. Some of the symtoms seem to point to a grounding
problem, although I am not ruling out the ICM. I am going to try to redo all the grounds and see if that helps first.

 

I had a 98 that did that and it ended up being the alternator. Low voltage caused the transmission solenoids not to operate and made the engine rpm low which caused a feel of loss of power in addition to ligting all the idot lights on the dash. Just something else to look at.

 

Well, I tried looking at all the grounds even though voltages looked ok. Replaced the ground terminal which looked very questionable and its
holding up for at least a week now. Maybe its solved. Still getting the
RrABS light and Brake light on intermittantly. But I think thats a different
wiring issue. Will look at that this weekend. I think the alternator is ok since I get 13~14 volts when the engine is running and the battery is holding the charge. Thanks, -J

 

Well, drove it 300 miles, next morning, would turn over but not start. Tried
moving a few feet by pushing it and it started right up???? What the heck
is going on? Back to the drawing board - It states that the 3.2L engine has the PCM, ICM, and crankshaft sensor for starting. Wondering if this
crankshaft sensor could be bad? Oh well. the fight is still on!

 

Okay, I would still look at the wiring going to the crankshaft sensor. Look for chaffs in the wiring wspecially around the oil pan. Moving the vehicle can slightly move a wires position and if it is just barely chaffing it can change that. Next time do a test. Use starting fluid to make sure it is an ignition issue and not a fuel issue. Lets go from there.

 

Thanks, very helpful information. Will explore this issue some more. -J

 

Well, the wiring seems to be intact. The new symtom is that it will crank but not start about 1 out of 4 times but eventully it starts. When it will not start, the fuel guage slowly goes to empty while cranking - maybe the fuel pump? Acting like it isn't getting fuel. Checked the fuel pump relay - was good, need to check the fuel pump connector to see if its loose. I am thinking the fuel regulator may be bad. I don't have a fuel guage so I may break down and buy one or take it somewhere to get it checked out. Still fishing this one but I don't think its the ICM anymore since when it starts, it runs great.