Alternator or ECM bad???
#1
Alternator or ECM bad???
Hi all,
I have a 1997 Isuzu Rodeo 2wd with a 2.6 4ez1 engine and 5 speed manual trans. I was heading to work last week when the motor sputtered and cut out. I figured the fuel pump gave up the ghost when I didn't hear it cycle when I turned on the ignition key.
Upon getting it towed home I began to troubleshoot the fuel pump before randomly replacing it and found the fuse to the ECM was blown. I replaced it and went and tried to start it and could hear the fuel pump cycle. I proceeded to try and start it which it did momentarily but immediately died and wouldn't restart.
I did a little searching and found where the alternator could be the problem. I disconnected the 4 pin harness, replaced the fuse and she started up and ran fine and was charging the battery although it was only reading about 13.7 volts on my multimeter. I replaced the alternator and all was well until today I had to step on it a little bit to pass in traffic and it sputtered and died. The fuse was blown again so I cut the lead that goes from the alternator to the ECM, replaced the fuse and she started and ran fine.
Is there a way to tell which one is causing the problem? I had also read on a forum about a way to bypass the ECM connection but for the life of me I can't find it. Any elp and or ideas would be appreciated.
Thanks Alan
I have a 1997 Isuzu Rodeo 2wd with a 2.6 4ez1 engine and 5 speed manual trans. I was heading to work last week when the motor sputtered and cut out. I figured the fuel pump gave up the ghost when I didn't hear it cycle when I turned on the ignition key.
Upon getting it towed home I began to troubleshoot the fuel pump before randomly replacing it and found the fuse to the ECM was blown. I replaced it and went and tried to start it and could hear the fuel pump cycle. I proceeded to try and start it which it did momentarily but immediately died and wouldn't restart.
I did a little searching and found where the alternator could be the problem. I disconnected the 4 pin harness, replaced the fuse and she started up and ran fine and was charging the battery although it was only reading about 13.7 volts on my multimeter. I replaced the alternator and all was well until today I had to step on it a little bit to pass in traffic and it sputtered and died. The fuse was blown again so I cut the lead that goes from the alternator to the ECM, replaced the fuse and she started and ran fine.
Is there a way to tell which one is causing the problem? I had also read on a forum about a way to bypass the ECM connection but for the life of me I can't find it. Any elp and or ideas would be appreciated.
Thanks Alan
#2
Hi all,
I have a 1997 Isuzu Rodeo 2wd with a 2.6 4ez1 engine and 5 speed manual trans. I was heading to work last week when the motor sputtered and cut out. I figured the fuel pump gave up the ghost when I didn't hear it cycle when I turned on the ignition key.
Upon getting it towed home I began to troubleshoot the fuel pump before randomly replacing it and found the fuse to the ECM was blown. I replaced it and went and tried to start it and could hear the fuel pump cycle. I proceeded to try and start it which it did momentarily but immediately died and wouldn't restart.
I did a little searching and found where the alternator could be the problem. I disconnected the 4 pin harness, replaced the fuse and she started up and ran fine and was charging the battery although it was only reading about 13.7 volts on my multimeter. I replaced the alternator and all was well until today I had to step on it a little bit to pass in traffic and it sputtered and died. The fuse was blown again so I cut the lead that goes from the alternator to the ECM, replaced the fuse and she started and ran fine.
Is there a way to tell which one is causing the problem? I had also read on a forum about a way to bypass the ECM connection but for the life of me I can't find it. Any elp and or ideas would be appreciated.
Thanks Alan
I have a 1997 Isuzu Rodeo 2wd with a 2.6 4ez1 engine and 5 speed manual trans. I was heading to work last week when the motor sputtered and cut out. I figured the fuel pump gave up the ghost when I didn't hear it cycle when I turned on the ignition key.
Upon getting it towed home I began to troubleshoot the fuel pump before randomly replacing it and found the fuse to the ECM was blown. I replaced it and went and tried to start it and could hear the fuel pump cycle. I proceeded to try and start it which it did momentarily but immediately died and wouldn't restart.
I did a little searching and found where the alternator could be the problem. I disconnected the 4 pin harness, replaced the fuse and she started up and ran fine and was charging the battery although it was only reading about 13.7 volts on my multimeter. I replaced the alternator and all was well until today I had to step on it a little bit to pass in traffic and it sputtered and died. The fuse was blown again so I cut the lead that goes from the alternator to the ECM, replaced the fuse and she started and ran fine.
Is there a way to tell which one is causing the problem? I had also read on a forum about a way to bypass the ECM connection but for the life of me I can't find it. Any elp and or ideas would be appreciated.
Thanks Alan
Might be better to have your original part repaired at upfix.com
Here is the service link
https://www.upfix.com/product-catego...ontrol-repair/
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