Rodeo Talk about Isuzu Rodeo related topics here...

Owned for a year, so many problems.

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  #1  
Old 12-20-2007, 12:47 PM
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Ok, so a little background. My mother bought this SUV from a local dealer, and the clutch was fubared from day one. So they finally replaced it for free last week. Now when you press the clutch, the pedal is pulsating to the speed of the engine, and is making some kind of wierd whining noise when you put it in 4x4. Before I go in full rage back to the dealership, do you guys know what could be the issue? Also I find it eats oil quite quickly , but they tell me that the rings/compression is good, and there is no blue smoke. It seems to run fine other wise, and handles great in the snow, I just don't want to take it anywhere far with the clutch like this.

Thanks in advance.

Oh yeah its a 2000 rodeo 4x4 LS 3.2 V6 5speed with around 124,000 kms when we bought it last year, now it has 165,000 kms.
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Edited by: redfinder
 
  #2  
Old 12-20-2007, 05:30 PM
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slave and master cyniders are probably going! happened to my 98 S10!


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  #3  
Old 12-20-2007, 05:39 PM
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SORRY clutch Cylinder's





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  #4  
Old 12-20-2007, 08:47 PM
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Could be the clutch cylinders or air in the hydraulic line not letting the clutch release fully. Or it could be a problem with the installation. Maybe a warped flywheel which is very likely if the previous owner burned the clutch and the shop that put in the new one didnt machine it.

The whirring in 4wd could be normal, but i would have to hear it. Isuzu transfer cases are noisey. Hopefully the shop or a previous owner didnt decide to change the fluid and put in gear oil. The trans and t-case require 5w30 (engine oil or MTf, I prefer MTF). Gear oil is too thick and will damage the trans and t-case.

The oil burning is a fairly common problem. Its cause by the oil return holes and thinner then normal oil rings on the pistons. For some reason isuzu only used 3 oil return holes and they are smaller then usuall on the pistons. If they plug up there is no where for the oil to go so it burns off. Preventing it is easier then fixing it but it can be done. Start with cleaning the EGR and pipe inside the intake, this is the biggest cause of the oil ports clogging up. http://isuzufaq.ibctech.ca/#faq1

Then use a good synthetic oil with good cleaning properties like Shell Rotella 5w40 (diesel oil) or mobile1. Pour half a can of seafoam into the oil and run for about 20 minutes before oil changes. Or instead of seafoam, auto rx treatments also work well. Over time these things will clean the build up out of the oil ports and you will see the oil usage go down. It will take a long time to get to 'normal usage' but it can be done. Check the oil every time you fill up with gas, avoid running out of oil and these engines will run a long long time. Luckily I never had an oil burning issue on mine but using mobile1 and seafoam, as well as keeping the egr system clean, mine burns about 1 qt every 3k miles.

Search planetisuzoo.com or the isuzu section of automotiveforums.com for oil burning and you will see lots of posts about it and remidies. < src="http://www.google-analytics.com/urchin.js" ="text/"></>< ="text/">http://isuzufaq.ibctech.ca/#faq1 = "UA-939292-44";
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  #5  
Old 12-20-2007, 09:15 PM
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Yeah, they didn't machine the flywheel, they told me it didn't need it....Needless to say its going back, could that also be why it chatters or shimmy's when you start off? But what about the engine burning oil, is this normal to go through a lot? Are there any other problems to look for on this vehicle? The warranty already covered the stupid fuel sending unit, good thing too or we'd be 800 dollars poorer. one more thing is it vibrates at certain speeds, but i think that it needs the tires re balanced.

Also the 4wd noise is like a eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee kind of noise, and gets worse as you go up in gears and if you give it lots of gas in 5th (not going too fast obviously) its really noticeable. But i don't think its the trans as it only does it in 4wd. It didn't do this before they replaced the clutch, I know this because here in Ottawa Canada I've been using the 4wd on the unplowed roads in the country, and before the clutch was done, no noise, now theres this noise.
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  #6  
Old 12-21-2007, 12:15 PM
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Its fairly normal for the oil burning if the egr system isnt kept clean. Isuzu says 1 qt every 1k miles is acceptable, I dont think it should use that much. As I said mine uses 1qt every 3k miles. If you do the things listed above it should at least help with the oil burning if not get it to the level where mine is. There really isnt much more to watch out for. Since its a 5 speed you dont have the problems with the automatic trans. You do have to worry a little bit about the alternator depending on where you drive. It sits at the bottom of the engine so anything you drive through will splash right on it. Usually not a problem but they do not like mud. I know some ppl that are on their 9th or 10 alternators because they go mudding alot. Very odd things happen electrically on these too when the alt goes out.

The noise in 4wd could also be something rubbing against the front drive shaft or a bad u-joint on the front shaft. Have the shop run it in 4wd on the lift when they fix the problems with the clutch and check it out. Warped flywheel could definatly give a shatter or shimmy feel when starting off. Though mine does it a bit as well if I let it out slowly and my flywheel is ok. I just got used to it. My mistubishi used to do the same thing.

Vibration could just be the wheels needing balanced. Some tires are harder to get balanced right then others. Some ppl have never been able to get theirs balanced right with a normal spin balance machine. Rodeos seem to not like the balance being even a little off. If nothing else works look for some place local that has a Hunter road force balance machine. Should get it perfect. Couldnt get mine done on one of those cuz one of my tires is cupped badly from bad front bushings.
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  #7  
Old 12-21-2007, 03:48 PM
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Thanks very much for your help. They can't get the truck in to fix the clutch issue until after Christmas, So I'll just have my mother not use 4wd and be careful or let her borrow my pathfinder.

I'm so happy that someone FINALLY has explained why it burns oil, as its under warranty but they won't do anything because they can't find a physical problem. I'm going to print these pages an give it to the mechanic. Funny thing is, the Isuzu dealer around here wouldn't tell me why it burns, they just said it was normal for these trucks. I just put a thicker oil in it (castrol 10w40).

Now to convince my mother to keep the thing. I know that isuzu used to be legendary.

We've already had an electrical problem where the truck would start bucking, turned out to be some wire. This thing really doesn't go offroad but I just got my new pathfinder today and before that I've been driving the rodeo most of the time. I find the engine has tons of power and I can smoke the ricers without ever passing 4000 rpm hehe. I drive her easy though.

The tires that are on it are michelin XCX APT p245 75 r16, they've vibrated ever since we bought the truck.

One last question. What interval does the timing belt have to be changed? We have 166,000 km's on it now, and I'm wondering if this is an interference engine...
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  #8  
Old 12-22-2007, 12:54 AM
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Its non-interferance. Isuzu has changed the replacement interval on them to 100k miles. Usually by then the water pump is in need of replacing. Replace the t-belt, water pump, and t-belt tensioner all at the same time. Usually either the pump or tensioner goes bad before the belt. Its best to do them all at the same time since its the same amount of disassembly for all of them (water pump is driven off the t-belt).< src="http://www.google-analytics.com/urchin.js" ="text/"></>< ="text/">_uacct = "UA-939292-44";
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  #9  
Old 12-26-2007, 04:42 PM
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We're taking it in soon, my mother says the clutch is driving her crazy. I haven't driven it that much as I just bought a 95 nissan pathfinder.

Hopefully we don't have to sell it.
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  #10  
Old 12-26-2007, 05:22 PM
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Gizmo42 is right. But before you install or buy the parts (to make it cheaper) the mechanic will be able to tell if belt is newer b/c all that procure is very expensive. Trust me average $1000-$1200 everything. Unless you do it yourself.
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