Just picked up an '88 Tooper for $100.00 Overall in good shape except for one driveability concern...


Sometimes it starts and runs fines, other times it is a normal crank no start. Furthermore, when it does start and run normally, it will eventually, within say 10 minutes, stall and not re-start.


My diagnoses found that during the crank no starts there was no spark. Digging deeper I found no pulse to the coild. All this lead to replacing the CAS (crank angle sensor). However, I was only able to find the CAS sold with the dist.


So cool... r+r the dist and I'm done. NOT!http://www.isuzuforums.com/smileys/smiley7.gif


Now I can't get the thing started at all. So I pulled the dist, set the crank timing mark at 12deg BTC and stabbed the dist so the rotor points to #1


Still no start.smileys/smiley7.gifsmileys/smiley19.gifsmileys/smiley7.gif





I tried several different combinations for cap/wire combos but still have a no start. My book states firing order is 1-3-4-2





Is there a computer re-learn method or something?http://www.isuzuforums.com/smileys/smiley5.gif

the dist must be set in on number 4 abount where the bolt to hold dist is and make sure the engine is on tdc, because the crank pulleys were known to slip and be in the wrong place

... the crank pulleys were known to slip and be in the wrong place...


Thanks for the tip.


However, if the crank pulley is known to slip what is the fix? new crank key?


and why does it slip 180 smileys/smiley5.gif





Sean

the crank pulley slip, the crank puley is actually 3 pieces a middle that is on the crank the rubber insulator and the outer piece that the belts ride on and that is were the timing mark is, this is the piece that slips and show you the incorrect position on the timing mark,

Thanks Mastertech





I tried your tips and got the thing started. However, it was running like crap. So here is what I did...
<UL>
<LI>set #1 cyl to TDC by pullying the plug and using something like a welding rod to "feel" when the cyl reaches TDC.</LI>
<LI>Then verify position of rotor and adjust so it points at/near #1 on the cap</LI>[/list]


Then I started and verified. Ran better, but not perfect. So I pulled the dist again and adjusted one tooth in either direction until it ran correctly.


WHAT a pain, but all is good now except... The idle starts good, but after a test drive and everything is nice and hot the idle is at like 1200rpm's not the 900 I had it set before the drive. I adjusted the dist using a vaccum gauge, but the idle will climb again. I checked for vaccum leaks to no avail. I still have to do some more research for timing procedures on this beat but I was wondering if you had any tidbits for me?





Sean